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02-04-2019, 11:47 AM
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Denton Wine Bar review
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 Sirloin crudo with radishes and toast.Credit:Jason South This is not a restaurant. And the only Japanese thing about it is a continued worship of minimalism. You’re looking at a Euro-style Wine bar and bottle shop custom-built to serve a local clientele, with a menu whose unabashed brevity and simplicity makes it one of the most refreshing things on the market right now. The tiny team consists of Denton, Chris Kloss wrangling the bar and shop, and chef Kieran Hoop, who has come out of semi-retirement to cook a tight menu of just six dishes, chalked on the board and built of market-fresh produce, barely molested at all. Beef crudo is the definition of the word. The soft quenelle of raw sirloin is almost completely unadulterated save for a slash of olive oil, a side of breakfast radishes, crisp toasts and a dish of salt. The salmon carpaccio is just as pure in form: four sushi-grade strips razzed with a dice of red onions, tarragon and dill, lubricated lightly with a little oil and lemon for lift. There’s some ballsiness to playing things so unapologetically straight. But there’s reasoning too. The Wine bar-restaurant line is murky. Denton, however, is a pure breed, where regulars can command which bottle is next to be popped, where grabbing a bottle of Andre Jacquart Premier Cru from the shelf costs just $15 over retail to drink in-house, and where food takes its rightful place as the complementary back-up dancer instead of the diva the wines have to work around.  Salmon carpaccio is a go-to dish.Credit:Jason South Hence that unobtrusively bare-bones tartare or maybe a little wagyu bresaola or comte. It’s the reason side stars are elegantly elemental: zucchini batons lightly warmed in a sweet, buttery reduction of onions and anchovies, and a salad of black russian tomatoes in their acidic prime with slips of fresh plum, tarragon and oil are simple, confident classics. This isn’t Embla, or Marion. That’s the last thing Denton wants. He wants this to be the new home for new locals who have no idea how to use their designer kitchens. Mains? A crisp-skinned, salmon fillet (perhaps a shade overdone â?? the only slip) braced by fudgy capsicum, olive and fennel-flecked pepperonata, or a well-grilled angus porterhouse, co-piloted by peppery cress (extra peppered) and fresh ricotta, with dijon riding shotgun.  Black angus porterhouse with peppery cress and ricotta.Credit:Jason South Even so, there’s appeal to this place beyond its own ambitions. Denton Wine Bar is run by guns with decades of experience who are done with the rat race and here are doing what they really like. It shows in effortless service. And look at the shelves â?? they’re stocked with vintage barolos and treats from the Jura that Denton has pulled from his private cellar. The portfolio from Denton’s family vineyard in Yarra Glen, including a crisp, dry nebbiolo rosأ© (currently being handled by winemaker Luke Lambert), is showcased for $10 a glass. Elsewhere, it’s all Australian producers they like â?? Lambert’s own wines, pet-nats from Vino Athletico, Dormilona cavas and the fun times gear from Jasper Button in the Adelaide Hills. This isn’t a restaurant. It’s the antidote. An ego-stripped expression of everything that’s good about drinking and dining in this town. Score 14/20 Address 1 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, no phone, no website Open Mon-Sat noon-10pm (hours to extend later) Vegetarian Limited, but tasty. Cheeses, at least one killer salad and a vegie dish. Drinks Denton is showcasing his family’s vineyard (specialty, nebbiolos), vintages from his private cellar and the wines of his Aussie friends. Cost Smaller dishes $6-$14; mains $25-$35. Go-to dish Salmon carpaccio with red onion, herbs ($14). Pro tip Pocket a bottle of Denton’s nebbiolo rosأ© (only available here) and schlep it to the park. Most Viewed in Lifestyle <span class="_2wzgv D5idv _3lVFK">Loading Source link More 
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العرض الشجري