THE GUY whose task it was to Guide me into the Amazon was named Ruber Le´on S´anchez. “Like ‘lion,’” he told me after firmly gripping my hand and shaking it as if it needed to be wrung out. The named seemed fitting; the manager at my hotel had the last name of Puma. I wondered if later on I’d meet a woman named Anna Conda. “Let’s go,” said Ruber, whose confident stride, forest-green fatigues and 2-foot machete swinging from his belt made him king of the jungle in my eyes.
I didn’t particularly want to be traipsing through the…