Welcoming the
dead to
dinner: How an
isolated village in
Svaneti ho**rs their deceased
The
village of Lenjeri is silent.
The sun rarely peaks out from behind a thin layer of clouds, and pine-covered hills rise over the traditional stone tower buildings. The only sound comes from the giant Caucasian Shepherd, suitably nicknamed "Lion", that barks at every soul that crosses his path.*
Yet the isolation outside seems suitable, as everyone has gathered indoors. On January 18th, in nearly every home in the mountains of Svaneti, families are
Welcoming their dearly departed to return and dine with them.
While the Orthodox Christian calendar, which most Georgians follow, has days set a side to pray for the dead, the holiday of Lipanali is exclusive to Svaneti. As it must start on January 18th and end the following Monday, each year has a different amount of time the
dead must be remembered, prayed for, dined with, and given tribute. Dali Khaptani of Lenjeri takes the holiday particularly seriously, "These days it's fashionable to make fun of traditional holidays or death - but these old holidays [even about death] are beautiful in
their own right"
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