{"id":111600,"date":"2018-12-28T18:39:54","date_gmt":"2018-12-28T15:39:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ww-vb.mine.nu\/w108\/eszter-palagyi-the-chef-driving-hungarys-food-revolution\/"},"modified":"2018-12-28T18:39:54","modified_gmt":"2018-12-28T15:39:54","slug":"eszter-palagyi-the-chef-driving-hungarys-food-revolution","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hameed.nwar.uk\/sa\/eszter-palagyi-the-chef-driving-hungarys-food-revolution\/","title":{"rendered":"Eszter Palagyi: The chef driving Hungary&#8217;s food revolution"},"content":{"rendered":"<p> [ad_1]<br \/>\n<\/p>\n<div style=\"max-height:\">\n<p><cite class=\"Paragraph__cite\">(CNN) \u2014 <\/cite><span>Hungary is not a country known for its cutting-edge cuisine, but rather its traditional meaty stews, creamy soups, plum dumplings and fried dough.<\/span><\/p>\n<div class=\"Paragraph__component\"><span>So when <a href=\"http:\/\/www.costes.hu\/en\/\" target=\"_blank\">Costes<\/a> became the first Hungarian restaurant to be awarded a Michelin star in 2010, it marked a sea change in national dining habits, triggering a nationwide movement towards lighter and more imaginative takes on traditional dishes.<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"CaptionedImage__component\">\n<div class=\"Image__component CaptionedImage__image Image__hasAspectRatio\" style=\"padding-top:56.25%\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"Image__image\" src=\"https:\/\/dynaimage.cdn.cnn.com\/cnn\/e_blur:500,q_auto:low,w_50,c_fill,g_auto,h_28,ar_16:9\/http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.cnn.com%2Fcnnnext%2Fdam%2Fassets%2F181212120820-budapest-eszter-palagyi.jpg\" alt=\"Eszter Palagyi likes to conjure up a taste of home with her cooking\"\/><\/div>\n<p>Eszter Palagyi likes to conjure up a taste of home with her cooking<\/p>\n<p>Courtesy Costes<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p><span>&#8220;Ten years ago it wasn&#8217;t possible to get good quality meat or good quality vegetables,&#8221; she tells CNN. &#8220;We had to buy so much stuff from France.&#8221; <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Now, thanks to Hungary&#8217;s foodie revolution, high-quality cheese, meat and vegetables are readily available from local sources.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span><\/p>\n<h3>Stay local and seasonal <\/h3>\n<p><\/span><\/p>\n<div class=\"CaptionedImage__component\">\n<div class=\"Image__component CaptionedImage__image Image__hasAspectRatio\" style=\"padding-top:56.25%\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"Image__image\" src=\"https:\/\/dynaimage.cdn.cnn.com\/cnn\/e_blur:500,q_auto:low,w_50,c_fill,g_auto,h_28,ar_16:9\/http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.cnn.com%2Fcnnnext%2Fdam%2Fassets%2F181212172339-budapest-costes-venison.jpg\" alt=\"Venison fillet from southwest Hungary, served with classic potato dumplings called &quot;D\u00f6d\u00f6lle&quot; from the Zala region, and marinated pine cones\"\/><\/div>\n<p>Venison fillet from southwest Hungary, served with classic potato dumplings called &#8220;D\u00f6d\u00f6lle&#8221; from the Zala region, and marinated pine cones<\/p>\n<p>Courtesy Costes<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p><span>This is one of Costes&#8217; selling points. Diners can order duck from Hungary&#8217;s Kuns\u00e1g region, marinated in Tokaji wine from vineyards in the northeast of the country, or catfish from Lake Fert\u0151, which straddles the Austria-Hungary border.  <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Local ingredients give the food its traditional flavor. If you were to serve truffles imported from Europe&#8217;s main suppliers &#8212; such as France, Italy or Spain &#8212; rather than Hungary&#8217;s own, the taste would be different, says Palagyi. <\/span><\/p>\n<div class=\"CaptionedImage__component\">\n<div class=\"Image__component CaptionedImage__image Image__hasAspectRatio\" style=\"padding-top:56.25%\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"Image__image\" src=\"https:\/\/dynaimage.cdn.cnn.com\/cnn\/e_blur:500,q_auto:low,w_50,c_fill,g_auto,h_28,ar_16:9\/http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.cnn.com%2Fcnnnext%2Fdam%2Fassets%2F181213100710-budapest-costes-honey.jpg\" alt=\"One of Costes' signature desserts: honeycomb from a village in northern Hungary and sunflower seed ice cream \"\/><\/div>\n<p>One of Costes&#8217; signature desserts: honeycomb from a village in northern Hungary and sunflower seed ice cream <\/p>\n<p>Courtesy Costes<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p><span>This means that the menu is dictated by the seasons. But for Palagyi, who takes inspiration from her grandmother&#8217;s kitchen, that&#8217;s the way it should be.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>&#8220;They didn&#8217;t have a supermarket where you go and get, for example, apples the whole year round,&#8221; she says.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Childhood memories drive Palagyi&#8217;s cooking, as she hopes to give her customers a taste of home. She recalls peeling potatoes for her father, or picking apples, fermenting them and leaving them in storage to eat during the winter. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>&#8220;I believe (that) when somebody comes to Costes they feel special&#8230; and they don&#8217;t just have food and a dinner,&#8221; she says. &#8220;They have (an) experience as well, and they have a small part of our history. I hope they fall in love with our country and our food as well.&#8221;<\/span><\/p>\n<div class=\"CaptionedImage__component\">\n<div class=\"Image__component CaptionedImage__image Image__hasAspectRatio\" style=\"padding-top:56.25%\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"Image__image\" src=\"https:\/\/dynaimage.cdn.cnn.com\/cnn\/e_blur:500,q_auto:low,w_50,c_fill,g_auto,h_28,ar_16:9\/http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.cnn.com%2Fcnnnext%2Fdam%2Fassets%2F181213100853-budapest-costes-somloi.jpg\" alt=\"&quot;Soml\u00f3i Galuska,&quot; a traditional Hungarian dessert  with N\u00f3gr\u00e1d walnut, golden raisin jam, and sponge cake soaked in coffee under a chocolate coating\"\/><\/div>\n<p>&#8220;Soml\u00f3i Galuska,&#8221; a traditional Hungarian dessert  with N\u00f3gr\u00e1d walnut, golden raisin jam, and sponge cake soaked in coffee under a chocolate coating<\/p>\n<p>Courtesy Costes<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p><span><\/p>\n<h3>Traditional cuisine with a twist<\/h3>\n<p><\/span><\/p>\n<div class=\"Paragraph__component\"><span>This month, Costes&#8217; seven-course <a href=\"http:\/\/www.costes.hu\/en\/menu\/\" target=\"_blank\">tasting menu<\/a> &#8212; which costs around $150 per head &#8212; includes Hungarian caviar, a traditional fisherman&#8217;s soup and potato dumplings. <\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"CaptionedImage__component\">\n<div class=\"Image__component CaptionedImage__image Image__hasAspectRatio\" style=\"padding-top:56.25%\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"Image__image\" src=\"https:\/\/dynaimage.cdn.cnn.com\/cnn\/e_blur:500,q_auto:low,w_50,c_fill,g_auto,h_28,ar_16:9\/http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.cnn.com%2Fcnnnext%2Fdam%2Fassets%2F181213093401-budapest-costes-boar-meat.jpg\" alt=\"Costes' take on the traditional Hungarian dish &quot;vadas&quot;: boar meat with carrots and steamed dumplings\"\/><\/div>\n<p>Costes&#8217; take on the traditional Hungarian dish &#8220;vadas&#8221;: boar meat with carrots and steamed dumplings<\/p>\n<p>Courtesy Costes<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p><span>&#8220;I like her playful, creative approach,&#8221; Zsofia Mautner, Hungarian food blogger and author, says of Palagyi. &#8220;Her cooking these days really features classic Hungarian dishes in a very creative manner.&#8221;<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>Mautner explains that old recipes are at the heart of &#8220;new Hungarian cuisine.&#8221; She says the movement, which began around 2007, means traditional food but &#8220;lightened up dishes, new culinary techniques, researching and the use high-quality, local products and creative plating.&#8221;<\/span><\/p>\n<div class=\"CaptionedImage__component\">\n<div class=\"Image__component CaptionedImage__image Image__hasAspectRatio\" style=\"padding-top:56.25%\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"Image__image\" src=\"https:\/\/dynaimage.cdn.cnn.com\/cnn\/e_blur:500,q_auto:low,w_50,c_fill,g_auto,h_28,ar_16:9\/http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.cnn.com%2Fcnnnext%2Fdam%2Fassets%2F181212170148-budapest-costes-interior.jpg\" alt=\"A tasting menu at Costes costs around $150 per person, or $227 with a wine pairing\"\/><\/div>\n<p>A tasting menu at Costes costs around $150 per person, or $227 with a wine pairing<\/p>\n<p>Courtesy Costes<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"Paragraph__component\"><span>When Palagyi joined Costes, she brought the menu back home from the international cuisine rustled up by Portuguese chef Miguel Rocha Vieira, who now runs sister restaurant <a href=\"http:\/\/costesdowntown.hu\/en\/\" target=\"_blank\">Costes Downtown<\/a> &#8212; another one of the four Hungarian restaurants, all based in Budapest, that can boast of <a href=\"https:\/\/guide.michelin.com\/hu\/restaurants?max=30&amp;sort=relevance&amp;order=desc\" target=\"_blank\">Michelin star<\/a>.<\/span><\/div>\n<div class=\"Paragraph__component\"><span>There&#8217;s also two-star <a href=\"https:\/\/onyxrestaurant.hu\/en\/menu\/\" target=\"_blank\">Onyx<\/a>, which offers a &#8220;Within our Borders&#8221; tasting menu that includes t\u00far\u00f3 rudi, a popular Hungarian sweet similar to a chocolate bar but filled with a dairy cream like cottage cheese, and the restaurant and wine bar <a href=\"http:\/\/borkonyha.hu\/en\/\" target=\"_blank\">Borkonyha<\/a> that serves a lamb goulash.<\/span><\/div>\n<p><span><\/p>\n<h3>Cooking up a career<\/h3>\n<p><\/span><\/p>\n<div class=\"CaptionedImage__component\">\n<div class=\"Image__component CaptionedImage__image Image__hasAspectRatio\" style=\"padding-top:56.25%\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"Image__image\" src=\"https:\/\/dynaimage.cdn.cnn.com\/cnn\/e_blur:500,q_auto:low,w_50,c_fill,g_auto,h_28,ar_16:9\/http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.cnn.com%2Fcnnnext%2Fdam%2Fassets%2F181212164221-budapest-eszter-palagyi-2.jpg\" alt=\"One of Palagyi's first memories is peeling potatoes\"\/><\/div>\n<p>One of Palagyi&#8217;s first memories is peeling potatoes<\/p>\n<p>Courtesy Costes<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p><span>Palagyi studied at culinary school in Budapest, before moving to Ireland to train at the Mount Falcon Country House Hotel. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>&#8220;I remember my first day in the kitchen,&#8221; she says. &#8220;The first hour I cut my finger, I didn&#8217;t know how to use the knife. Now I think I start to know the ingredients and understand how I can work with them perfectly and how I can bring out the most of it.&#8221;<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>But her career has moved quickly. Aged just 32, Palagyi has already won Hungary&#8217;s Chef of the Year award three times, and under her direction Costes won Restaurant of the Year three times in a row, and has maintained Michelin star standards. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>She insists it was never her goal to win awards, but that, &#8220;one opportunity was bringing another one and so on so I never actually realized how far I got.&#8221;<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span>&#8220;I never had time to stop and say, wow, well done,&#8221; she says.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<p>[ad_2]<br \/>\n<br \/><a href=\"https:\/\/www.cnn.com\/travel\/article\/budapest-chef-eszter-palagyi\/index.html\">Source link <\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>[ad_1] (CNN) \u2014 Hungary is not a country known for its cutting-edge cuisine, but rather its traditional meaty stews, creamy soups, plum dumplings and fried dough. So when Costes became the first Hungarian restaurant to be awarded a Michelin star in 2010, it marked a sea change in national dining habits, triggering a nationwide movement &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[91663,91662],"class_list":["post-111600","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-tie-world","tag-eszter-palagyi-the-chef-driving-hungarys-food-revolution-cnn","tag-foodanddrink"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hameed.nwar.uk\/sa\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/111600","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hameed.nwar.uk\/sa\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hameed.nwar.uk\/sa\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hameed.nwar.uk\/sa\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hameed.nwar.uk\/sa\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=111600"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/hameed.nwar.uk\/sa\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/111600\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hameed.nwar.uk\/sa\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=111600"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hameed.nwar.uk\/sa\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=111600"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hameed.nwar.uk\/sa\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=111600"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}